Enzo & Lily

The most direct test of the city's editorial question: a maker trained inside the house that made Paris synonymous with ice cream, who left specifically to take that technique somewhere Berthillon does not go — savoury, vegetal, collaborative with named craft food producers. Gault&Millau's 2026 shop guide profiles him under exactly this framing: 'As the grandson of Raymond Berthillon, Lionel Chauvin could have simply carried on the family recipes. Instead, he chose to forge his own path.'

What we know

Trained formally inside Berthillon before leaving at 43 to found his own brand in 2021, named after his children, per La Toque's named-journalist profile
All natural, no colourants, no additives, no glucose syrup, ingredients almost entirely French except a few fruits such as Polish strawberries, per the same profile
Deliberately unconventional flavour range: smoked salmon, wasabi, Mont-d'Or and avocado, egg and mayonnaise, langoustine, sobacha and genmaicha tea (Gault&Millau); a full range of plant-based ('glaces végétales') flavours took 24 recipe attempts to perfect (La Toque)
Supplies named restaurant and craft partners rather than only retailing direct: the seafood restaurant La Cagouille, Maison Poilâne (a bread-grain flavour range), the Franco-Japanese pâtisserie Tomo, and the tea house Jugetsudo by Maruyama Nori for matcha sourcing
In his own words, on why he left the family house: 'Je voulais faire exactement ce que je voulais... comme commander des huîtres et en faire des huîtres givrées' ('I wanted to do exactly what I wanted... like ordering oysters and turning them into frozen oysters')

Status: open
Address: 2 Rue Auguste Maquet, 75016 Paris
Maker: Lionel Chauvin, grandson of Berthillon founder Raymond Berthillon, trained in theory and practice inside Berthillon before founding his own house
Opened: 2021
Website: lionel-chauvin.fr/
Last checked: 2026-08-21

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